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Ammonia Risk: How Much Is Too Much?
Ammonia is toxic for your fish. It is produced by fish waste and decaying matter. Too many fish in the tank can cause the problem as well as untreated tap water, antibiotics, major cleaning, and power outages. Moreover, test kits can give false readings if ammonia- removing products are used, and a new tank will not cycle because ammonia is needed for beneficial bacteria colonies to become established. After a tank has cycled, ammonia readings should be undetectable. It is easy to see if there are toxic levels of ammonia in the tank, however, by the state of your fish. Their gills will be irritated, they will be lethargic, and finally, they will come up for air, because the water has been polluted by ammonia. Do not let the water get into that condition. Furthermore, ammonia toxicity is affected by temperature and pH. The lower they both are, the more ammonia can be tolerated. However, even low concentrations of ammonia will cause stress to the fish, resulting in disease and premature death. So even though ammonia may be tolerated if all other water parameters are monitored, action should be taken to lower the risk.
To remove toxins from the closed environment of the aquarium, three kinds of filtration are needed: mechanical, biological, and chemical. Mechanical filtration strains out solid waste from the aquarium, trapping and removing plant debris, uneaten fish food, and fish waste from the water column. Biological filtration uses beneficial bacteria to break down ammonia into less toxic matter. Colonies of beneficial bacteria consume ammonia and produce nitrite as a byproduct. Then nitrite-eating bacteria convert nitrite into less toxic nitrate. Water changes then can lessen nitrate levels. Chemical filtration removes toxins such as copper, chlorine, dissolved proteins, medications, discolorations, and tap water impurities, through a series of chemical reactions. Water needs to pass through the mechanical filtration process first. Then particles that get into the chemical filter are less likely to clog the carbon media. Media in the filter should be changed each month. For in-between cleanings, take water from the aquarium and rinse out waste buildup in the utility sink.
If your fish are dying or in respiratory distress, or there is discoloration of the water and increased algae growth, test for excess levels of ammonia and nitrite in the tank. To correct the problem, change 10% to 25% of the water every day and add chemical ammonia-neutralizing media to the filtration. Test the pH levels of the water and if abnormal, adjust with a 10% to 25% water change and add pH buffers. Algae growth alone may signify excess nitrate. Test for nitrate levels and if incorrect, change 10% to 25% of the water with nitrate-free water each week and add a nitrate-reducing chemical media to the filter. For algae growth, cyanobacteria in saltwater, inhibited calcification in corals, or the presence of coralline algae, test for excess phosphates. If too high, change 10% to 25% of the water with phosphate-free water each week and add phosphate-absorbing media to the filter. If any fish are diseased, remove them from the aquarium and quarantine them with the appropriate medication until cured, before returning them to the main aquarium.
To remove toxins from the closed environment of the aquarium, three kinds of filtration are needed: mechanical, biological, and chemical. Mechanical filtration strains out solid waste from the aquarium, trapping and removing plant debris, uneaten fish food, and fish waste from the water column. Biological filtration uses beneficial bacteria to break down ammonia into less toxic matter. Colonies of beneficial bacteria consume ammonia and produce nitrite as a byproduct. Then nitrite-eating bacteria convert nitrite into less toxic nitrate. Water changes then can lessen nitrate levels. Chemical filtration removes toxins such as copper, chlorine, dissolved proteins, medications, discolorations, and tap water impurities, through a series of chemical reactions. Water needs to pass through the mechanical filtration process first. Then particles that get into the chemical filter are less likely to clog the carbon media. Media in the filter should be changed each month. For in-between cleanings, take water from the aquarium and rinse out waste buildup in the utility sink.
If your fish are dying or in respiratory distress, or there is discoloration of the water and increased algae growth, test for excess levels of ammonia and nitrite in the tank. To correct the problem, change 10% to 25% of the water every day and add chemical ammonia-neutralizing media to the filtration. Test the pH levels of the water and if abnormal, adjust with a 10% to 25% water change and add pH buffers. Algae growth alone may signify excess nitrate. Test for nitrate levels and if incorrect, change 10% to 25% of the water with nitrate-free water each week and add a nitrate-reducing chemical media to the filter. For algae growth, cyanobacteria in saltwater, inhibited calcification in corals, or the presence of coralline algae, test for excess phosphates. If too high, change 10% to 25% of the water with phosphate-free water each week and add phosphate-absorbing media to the filter. If any fish are diseased, remove them from the aquarium and quarantine them with the appropriate medication until cured, before returning them to the main aquarium.
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