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Reverse Osmosis Purifies Your Aquarium Completely
Because tap water contains phosphates, nitrates, chlorine, and various heavy metals that can be toxic for your aquarium inhabitants, it is necessary to filter out these chemicals from the water. Well water also may contain high levels of minerals, making the water hard and affecting pH levels. A high level of nutrients, including silicates, in the water may encourage algae growth. For all these problems, reverse osmosis (RO), a water filtration system in which water is moved through a semi-permeable membrane that removes 90-99% of water impurities, minerals, and contaminants, is the answer. The type of membrane used determines how many impurities an RO unit can remove.
By removing practically all the chemicals, however, a new imbalance is created. Freshwater aquariums require minerals to be put back to reach an ideal pH level. Freshwater plants grow in water with specific pH levels. RO conditioners or buffers will customize the water to accomplish this. Saltwater aquariums require purified water with added salt mixes that have the minerals and trace elements that fish, corals, and invertebrates need. In both types of aquariums, impurities will throw off the balance of the pH and cause algae to form. In addition to the RO filter, a post-deionization (DI) filter that purifies water by means of ion exchange will make the water 99.9% pure. This can be attached to the unit or may come as a combined RO/DI unit. Using a test kit, a conductivity meter, or a TDS meter, you can measure whether the RO water is pure. There will be low algae growth, a balanced pH, and low phosphate and nitrate levels. Purified water has a general hardness of 0 GH and an alkalinity of 0 dKH. Otherwise, change the cartridges and/or the RO membrane.
To maintain an RO unit, flush the unit before first-time use. Replace the carbon and sediment pre-filters every six months. The membrane itself should last several years. Use a flush kit regularly to extend the life of the membrane. Water temperature and pressure are also important to maintain the system. Do not run hot water through the membrane, but use water between 70 and 77 degrees F and keep the pressure at 65 pounds per square inch. Use an RO pump to achieve this.
Choose a two-stage RO unit when space is limited. It is light and compact and contains a small in-line pre-filter and the RO membrane. Three-stage RO units are larger, contain one or more large carbon or sediment pre-filters, and are good for regular use because they last longer. Four-stage RO units include deionization, which filters water to greater than 99.9%. This is the highest level of water filtration.
Membrane types are selected based on water type, especially if your tap water contains chlorine. A CTA (cellulose tri-acetate) membrane is organic and has a removal rate of 88-94%. Use it only with chlorinated water to keep it clean and mold- and bacteria-free. It does not filter out chlorine, so let the chlorine dissipate out of the filtered water, then treat it with a chemical dechlorinator. A TFC (thin film composite) membrane is synthetic and removes between 94-98% of chemicals. The unit contains a carbon pre-filter to protect the membrane from chlorine damage. Use it for chlorinated or non-chlorinated water. A high removal membrane is synthetic and has a 97.5-99% removal rate and, in addition, is ideal for removing silicates. Like the TFC membrane, it has a carbon pre-filter and can be used for chlorinated or non-chlorinated water.
To install your RO unit, you will need a float valve kit, a heavy-duty-plastic covered container such as a 55-gallon trash container, a submersible pump that can carry water from the container to the aquarium, flexible tubing sized for the pump output and long enough to go from the container to the aquarium, and a 200-watt aquarium heater and floating thermometer.
Use a utility room or basement sink dedicated to the production of RO water for your aquarium. Hook up the RO intake and place the unit on the floor or on a shelf. Clean the container with water and a clean cloth. Read the manufacturer's directions for putting together the shutoff valve and the float switch. Hook up the waste water line to the sink or drain. Cover the container with the lid to protect against contaminants. RO water will be produced and will automatically shut off while you are asleep or away. When you have enough water, place the submersible pump and heater into the container of water and plug them in. The water will be mixed and heated to the same temperature as the aquarium. Add a re-mineralization product for a freshwater aquarium or a marine salt product for a saltwater aquarium. When the right water parameters are reached, turn off the pump and heater and attach the tubing to the pump; then place the other end of tubing in the aquarium to be filled and turn on the pump. Turn the pump off when you have the correct water level.
By removing practically all the chemicals, however, a new imbalance is created. Freshwater aquariums require minerals to be put back to reach an ideal pH level. Freshwater plants grow in water with specific pH levels. RO conditioners or buffers will customize the water to accomplish this. Saltwater aquariums require purified water with added salt mixes that have the minerals and trace elements that fish, corals, and invertebrates need. In both types of aquariums, impurities will throw off the balance of the pH and cause algae to form. In addition to the RO filter, a post-deionization (DI) filter that purifies water by means of ion exchange will make the water 99.9% pure. This can be attached to the unit or may come as a combined RO/DI unit. Using a test kit, a conductivity meter, or a TDS meter, you can measure whether the RO water is pure. There will be low algae growth, a balanced pH, and low phosphate and nitrate levels. Purified water has a general hardness of 0 GH and an alkalinity of 0 dKH. Otherwise, change the cartridges and/or the RO membrane.
To maintain an RO unit, flush the unit before first-time use. Replace the carbon and sediment pre-filters every six months. The membrane itself should last several years. Use a flush kit regularly to extend the life of the membrane. Water temperature and pressure are also important to maintain the system. Do not run hot water through the membrane, but use water between 70 and 77 degrees F and keep the pressure at 65 pounds per square inch. Use an RO pump to achieve this.
Choose a two-stage RO unit when space is limited. It is light and compact and contains a small in-line pre-filter and the RO membrane. Three-stage RO units are larger, contain one or more large carbon or sediment pre-filters, and are good for regular use because they last longer. Four-stage RO units include deionization, which filters water to greater than 99.9%. This is the highest level of water filtration.
Membrane types are selected based on water type, especially if your tap water contains chlorine. A CTA (cellulose tri-acetate) membrane is organic and has a removal rate of 88-94%. Use it only with chlorinated water to keep it clean and mold- and bacteria-free. It does not filter out chlorine, so let the chlorine dissipate out of the filtered water, then treat it with a chemical dechlorinator. A TFC (thin film composite) membrane is synthetic and removes between 94-98% of chemicals. The unit contains a carbon pre-filter to protect the membrane from chlorine damage. Use it for chlorinated or non-chlorinated water. A high removal membrane is synthetic and has a 97.5-99% removal rate and, in addition, is ideal for removing silicates. Like the TFC membrane, it has a carbon pre-filter and can be used for chlorinated or non-chlorinated water.
To install your RO unit, you will need a float valve kit, a heavy-duty-plastic covered container such as a 55-gallon trash container, a submersible pump that can carry water from the container to the aquarium, flexible tubing sized for the pump output and long enough to go from the container to the aquarium, and a 200-watt aquarium heater and floating thermometer.
Use a utility room or basement sink dedicated to the production of RO water for your aquarium. Hook up the RO intake and place the unit on the floor or on a shelf. Clean the container with water and a clean cloth. Read the manufacturer's directions for putting together the shutoff valve and the float switch. Hook up the waste water line to the sink or drain. Cover the container with the lid to protect against contaminants. RO water will be produced and will automatically shut off while you are asleep or away. When you have enough water, place the submersible pump and heater into the container of water and plug them in. The water will be mixed and heated to the same temperature as the aquarium. Add a re-mineralization product for a freshwater aquarium or a marine salt product for a saltwater aquarium. When the right water parameters are reached, turn off the pump and heater and attach the tubing to the pump; then place the other end of tubing in the aquarium to be filled and turn on the pump. Turn the pump off when you have the correct water level.
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